How to Determine a Holster's Retention Level

The lay person may hear the term "retention holster" and wonder if some holsters don't have any retention at all. That can be a bit misleading, to be sure. The term "retention holster" is used colloquially to denote a holster that has a bit more retention than the average holster does.

Holster retention in and of itself is a good thing to learn about, since knowing a bit about it can help a person know what to look for in a good open or .

Passive and Active Retention Holsters

Holster retention comes in two flavors: passive retention and active retention.

Passive retention is retention force that's inherent to a holster by virtue of its design and construction. To put that a little better, the materials used and the shape of a holster make it hold a pistol to a certain degree. Any natural retentive properties a holster has without having to do anything to it is the passive retention.

Active retention, on the other hand, is user-actuated in that an active retention device has to be engaged.

Some holsters have one or the other, and some have both - it all depends on the design of the holster in question. Usually, a "retention holster" will have multiple retention devices, offering far more security than many standard carry holsters.

Holster Evolution Brings Retention to the Next Level

The variety of carry holster available to the person wanting to carry a gun has become far more diverse in recent years. Until the advent of molded polymer holsters, the only carry holsters of any sort of quality were leather holsters and at that, leather pancake holsters.

Granted, shoulder holsters were also available for plainclothes police, federal agents and civilian carry, but the truth is that they aren't as commonly used as television and films would have you believe. What the movies don't show you is that few shoulder holster systems distribute the weight of a pistol well enough to carry for extended periods. A lot of plainclothes police would carry their or Detective Specials in a pocket; some would even have longer pockets sewn into overcoats to carry a 4-inch service revolver.

Anyhow, were both available, but unless there was a retention device of some kind, holster retention came by virtue of fastening one's belt. Since the holster rode high and tight to the body when wearing a leather scabbard or Askins holster, the tension created by the belt would keep the gun secure while being carried.

A greater degree of passive retention was offered, however, with the advent of the molded polymer holster and hybrid holster. Holsters that use this method of construction are precisely molded, instead of stitched. As a result, they more precisely hold to a gun's contours. Some also have adjustable retention by means of a retention screw, though a good number of modern leather holsters do as well. This lets the user clamp the holster down to a greater degree.

While technically passive retention, the user being able to set retention blurs the line somewhat between active and passive retention.

How to Identify Your Holster's Retention Level

Most shooters don’t think about their holster’s retention level until something goes wrong — a gun dislodges, a draw gets snagged, or a training instructor points out that someone could rip their weapon in a split second.

This section is for the shooter who wants to get specific: What level of retention do I currently have, and how do I know for sure? No guessing, no branding hype — just clear field-ready answers.

1. Start with the Draw Path

Begin with this: holster your unloaded weapon, wear it as you normally would, and go through your draw. Pay close attention to what happens before the gun actually starts to move out of the holster.

Every physical interruption between your grip and a clean draw counts. Here’s what you’re looking for:

• Does the gun simply slide out when pulled? That’s passive retention only.

• Do you have to unsnap, unhook, or press something first? Each of those counts as an active retention mechanism.

If you’re manipulating a device before the gun moves, you’re in active retention territory.

2. Confirm Passive Retention

Passive retention is built into the holster’s structure — it doesn’t require the user to operate anything.

To identify passive retention, ask:

• Is the holster molded tightly around the gun’s shape?
  If yes, that’s friction-based retention, often aided by material stiffness (like Kydex).

• Does the holster have a retention screw?
  If present, you can usually fine-tune the clamping pressure. Some shooters crank this down tight for high retention, some back it off for faster draws.

• When the gun clicks into place, can you shake the holster upside down without it falling out?
  If the weapon stays in unless properly drawn, that’s functioning passive retention.

Passive retention is always the foundation — every holster with any level of retention includes this.

3. Identify Active Retention Features

Active retention requires you to perform an action before the gun can be drawn. These are the most common features to look for, and they’re always easy to confirm by hand.

Thumb Break or Snap Strap:

A leather or synthetic strap that crosses over the back of the slide or hammer, fastened by a snap.

You have to unsnap it before the draw — that’s one active retention mechanism.

Hammer Loop / Thumb Loop:

A loop of material (often leather or nylon) goes over the rear of the firearm.

You have to pull this back or off to begin your draw. That’s another retention action.

Trigger Guard Lock / Internal Locking System:

Typically found in polymer holsters — a locking mechanism grabs onto the inside of the trigger guard.

You’ll feel or hear a click when you holster the weapon. Drawing requires pressing a lever or button (often with the index finger or thumb) to release the lock. That’s an active retention device.

One mechanical action = Level II.
Two separate actions = Level III.
Three or more = Level IV.

4. Count the Retention Mechanisms, Not the Claims

Forget manufacturer names or terms like “Level 2+ Tactical” — they’re marketing language. Instead, count the real, physical actions required to draw the gun after you have a proper grip:

• Level I: Passive retention only. No other mechanical interference.

• Level II: Passive + 1 mechanical device (snap, loop, or lock).

• Level III: Passive + 2 distinct mechanisms.

A holster can be snug and make a click — that’s not Level II. A thumb break alone doesn’t make a Level III. It’s the cumulative number of sequential, mechanical barriers that determine the level.

5. Real-Use Test: Simulate a Grab or Movement

Once you’ve identified the devices, test them like they matter:

• Retention during motion: Try running, jumping, rolling side to side with your unloaded gun holstered. Does anything shift or loosen?

• Grab test: Have someone try to pull the weapon out of your holster at different angles. See what they run into first.

• Speed test: Time how long it takes to draw cleanly, disengaging all retention devices under pressure.

You’re not just identifying retention here — you’re stress-testing it. If you can’t disengage the holster quickly with one hand under pressure, you’ve likely passed into territory where speed and safety are in tension. You might be in Level III or IV when a II would’ve done the job better for your needs.

No Guessing, Just Mechanics

Retention level isn’t a guess. It’s not a feeling. It’s a count of physical actions between your hand and the draw. By isolating and testing each part of your holster’s design, you get clarity — and clarity is what keeps weapons secure and draws clean.

Types Of Active Retention Devices

Active retention devices for retention holsters vary from holster to holster, but there are several common types that you'll notice.

• Thumb break: a thumb break strap is a strap of material, usually leather but nylon and other materials are common enough, with a snap closure on the holster. The loop encloses the rear of the pistol, keeping it from coming out of the holster unless the snap is undone.
• Thumb loop: a thumb loop functions much the same as a thumb break, except that it's a loop of material instead of a snap. The loop goes over the rear of the slide or the hammer - it's also commonly called a hammer loop - and must be released in order to draw the firearm.
• Trigger guard lock: a more modern device is the trigger guard lock. Usually it's a small hook or post that catches the interior of the trigger guard. The lock has to be deactivated in order to draw the pistol.

Common trigger guard lock mechanisms are finger or thumb releases. Some are located on the outside of the holster and some are on the inside the holster; the user actuates the button while grasping the pistol and then draws.

Device	Description	Activation Method
Thumb Break	Strap with snap that secures the rear of the pistol.	Undo snap with thumb before drawing.
Thumb Loop (Hammer Loop)	Loop of material over the slide or hammer.	Lift loop off using thumb to draw.
Trigger Guard Lock	Hook or post catches trigger guard internally.	Release button or lever while gripping pistol.

Explanation of Thumb Break in Holsters

A thumb break is a strap secured with a snap that loops over the back of the firearm — typically over the slide or hammer — and must be manually unsnapped with the thumb before the gun can be drawn. It’s the most widely used active retention system in holsters, offering a simple, mechanical barrier that adds a layer of security without overly complicating the draw process.

What It Does and How It Works

The thumb break is designed to prevent the gun from being pulled out of the holster unintentionally — whether during movement, a physical struggle, or accidental snagging. The strap, usually made of leather, nylon, or a polymer blend, is sewn into the holster body and connects with a snap button. When holstered, the strap sits firmly across the rear of the slide or hammer, physically blocking the firearm from moving upward or backward.

To draw, the user must:

1. Establish a proper firing grip.

2. Use the thumb to press upward or outward on the snap.

3. Clear the strap from the rear of the gun.

4. Complete the draw.

This sequence introduces one extra movement before the firearm can be cleared — which is exactly what makes it Level II when combined with passive retention.

Where It’s Most Commonly Used

Thumb break holsters are most commonly found in:

• Open carry setups (civilian or security)

• Law enforcement duty rigs

• Outdoor/tactical holsters where extra retention is critical

They're rarely seen in deep concealment rigs due to the added bulk and draw complexity, but they remain popular for their balance of speed and security in exposed carry situations.

Key Advantages

• Simple and reliable: Easy to use and train with; consistent release point.

• Visual and tactile confirmation: You know instantly when it’s engaged.

• Widely compatible: Works well with revolvers and semi-autos alike.

Potential Drawbacks

• Adds time to your draw: Especially under stress or if not well-practiced.

• Training required: Releasing the thumb break must become second nature.

• Not ideal for concealed carry: Extra material adds printing risk and can snag on clothing.

How to Evaluate Yours

• Test the snap strength: It should be secure, but not difficult to disengage.

• Practice with an unloaded firearm until you can release the strap cleanly in one motion.

• Simulate stress scenarios (running, grappling, etc.) to see how the strap holds under pressure.

Explanation of Thumb Loop (Hammer Loop) in Holsters

A thumb loop is a fixed or semi-rigid loop of material that wraps over the hammer or rear of the slide, acting as a retention device that must be lifted or pushed aside with the thumb before drawing the firearm. It serves the same purpose as a thumb break — to prevent unauthorized or accidental draws — but functions without a snap or mechanical closure.

What It Does and How It Works

Instead of snapping into place like a thumb break, a thumb loop stays in position by tension, material stiffness, or routing — often integrated into leather or nylon holsters designed for revolvers or hammer-fired pistols. It loops over the hammer or rear of the firearm and blocks the gun from being pulled upward unless it’s first moved aside manually.

To draw:

1. Establish a firing grip.

2. Use the thumb to lift or push the loop off the hammer or slide.

3. Complete the draw stroke.

Unlike snap-based retention, the loop doesn’t “click” into place — so it’s quieter, often more flexible, and better suited for minimalistic or traditional carry setups.

Where It’s Most Commonly Used

Thumb loops are often found in:

• Classic leather OWB holsters

• Western-style or cowboy-action rigs

• Holsters designed for revolvers with external hammers

• Old-school police or field carry setups

They’re less common in modern Kydex or polymer holsters, and rarely seen on striker-fired handgun rigs, since those lack a hammer for the loop to anchor over.

Key Advantages

• Quiet and low-profile: No snap = no noise or mechanical failure risk.

• Simple construction: Nothing to break or wear out over time.

• Fits traditional carry styles: Especially for revolver owners and leather holster fans.

Potential Drawbacks

• Less secure than a snap: Can be moved unintentionally with enough force.

• May not work well on striker-fired pistols: No hammer = no anchor point.

• Draw angle sensitivity: Loop tension may vary depending on your draw direction or grip.

How to Evaluate Yours

• Check that the loop stays in place during movement and doesn’t slide off unintentionally.

• Make sure you can move it one-handed with your thumb under realistic conditions.

• Try multiple draw angles to ensure the loop doesn't interfere or bind during the draw.

The thumb loop might not be as flashy as modern locking mechanisms, but for revolvers, leather holsters, and shooters who prefer old-school reliability, it gets the job done — quietly, consistently, and with just enough resistance to keep the weapon where it belongs.

Explanation of Trigger Guard Lock in Holsters

A trigger guard lock is an internal or external locking mechanism that secures the firearm by clamping onto the trigger guard — typically requiring the user to press a lever or button to release it before drawing. It's one of the most secure forms of active retention and is widely used in duty, tactical, and open carry holsters.

What It Does and How It Works

The core idea is simple: the holster contains a built-in device (usually a spring-loaded latch, post, or hook) that locks into the trigger guard when the firearm is fully seated. This lock holds the gun firmly in place and prevents it from being drawn unless a specific release action is performed.

These locks are most often disengaged by:

• Index finger pressing a lever near the trigger guard.

• Thumb pressing a release on the body of the holster.

Unlike thumb breaks or loops, the trigger guard lock is internal and automatic — you don't manually activate it when holstering. Once the gun clicks in, the system is engaged.

To draw:

1. Establish a firing grip.

2. Press the release mechanism (thumb or index).

3. Draw the firearm.

This design gives a clean, one-motion release — but only if you do it correctly.

Where It’s Most Commonly Used

Trigger guard locks are found in:

• Law enforcement duty holsters

• Military rigs

• Tactical open carry setups

• Civilian OWB holsters with high retention needs

Key Advantages

• High security: Nearly impossible to remove the gun without activating the release.

• Automatic engagement: Locks as soon as the firearm is holstered — no extra step.

• Streamlined draw path: Once trained, the draw can be fast and efficient with a natural grip.

Potential Drawbacks

• Training critical: If your finger or thumb isn’t in the right position, you can’t draw.

• Under stress, errors happen: Poor muscle memory = delayed draw or fumbled release.

• Trigger discipline risk: Some models place the release near the trigger area, which has led to negligent discharges when users press too hard or miss the timing.

How to Evaluate Yours

• Test the lock engagement by reholstering and listening/feeling for the “click.”

• Run one-handed draw drills to see if your grip naturally hits the release point.

• Practice from different angles and under movement to confirm you can disengage it under pressure.

• Make sure your trigger finger doesn’t slip into the trigger guard prematurely during the draw.

The trigger guard lock gives you serious retention power — but it also demands muscle memory and precision. It’s one of the best systems for open or duty carry when retention is critical, but only if the user puts in the reps to make it second nature.

Level 1 Retention Through Level 3 Retention: The Retention Levels

There are also retention levels for holsters, as you may have seen a particular model mentioned as a Level 1 holster all the way up to a Level 3 holster. This is a rating system for holster retention, as some have more than others.

The holster retention system was devised in the 1970s by Bill Rogers, a former FBI agent and police instructor who started his own holster company, making them specifically for law enforcement use. Each "level" corresponds to a rough amount of retention. Under Rogers' scheme, a holster had to undergo a test where someone had to try and get the gun out of the holster as if they were trying to grab it away from the officer.

However, the "rating" system is also used to quantify the number of retention devices. Here's how it works:

• Level One retention holster: a Level One holster has only passive retention; the friction and "hold" of the holster is all that keeps the pistol in it. Most concealed carry holsters are level one holsters. For true Level One retention, the gun should not be able to be pulled free unless drawn correctly, ensuring secure carry but easy access for the carrier/operator.
• Level Two retention holster: a Level Two holster has an active retention device in addition to the passive retention of the holster itself, making for two sources of retention. Commonly, a thumb break, hammer loop or trigger guard lock is the device in question. These are very popular for open carry or law enforcement.
• Level Three retention holster: a Level Three holster has an additional retention device installed. A common design is thumb break or loop in addition to a trigger guard lock. These are also common for , and a number of departments nationwide mandate that uniform officers have to carry in a Level Three retention holster.

Do I Need A Retention Holster?

Does the average person need a retention holster? In truth, it kind of depends. For concealed carry, a holster with good passive retention - and at that, adjustable passive retention - is sufficient, as this will provide enough hold. A Level II holster is about the most a civilian carrier will ever need for open carry, as this will provide plenty of retention even during arduous outdoor activities.

That said, there are some OWB holsters with only passive retention that can provide more than adequate hold.

Also, few Level III holsters are made for compact pistols and at that, have so many features and safety devices that concealment becomes impractical. Granted, this may be fine if a person is concealing a Glock 19 with a high-ride OWB holster under a jacket or sport coat, but not everyone conceals in this fashion. It is nearly impossible to find a Level III holster that can be .

Level III and certainly Level IV holsters are really the province of military and police personnel, as they are overkill for the civilian carrier.

Really, whether you need one comes down to the purpose you have in mind. The average Joe really won't need anything beyond a Level II holster, as that is perfectly sufficient.